Review: The Paradise by Way of Kensal Green — Her Favourite Food & Travel

Jul 16

Jul 16 Review: The Paradise by Way of Kensal Green

Style Points: 4/5
Price: £££
Overall: 4/5

The Paradise bar area

Last Christmas there was an American Expat gathering at The Paradise. The bar staff even had egg nog ready for the group of homesick expats. On that occasion I didn’t stay very long, but while I was there I noticed a room off the main bar that was hosting a Christmas dinner party. The group were seated around a long table with huge candelabras and looked like they were having a blast. After seeing that party I knew I wanted to return and give the food a try!

Bar area

When I made my return visit not long ago I was able to see more of the venue than just the front bar. We ate in the restaurant at the back and then had a wander around the rooms upstairs. They’ve got several rooms which can be hired out or that have live music on the weekends. The whole place is decorated in this musty Victorian style…almost like some of the decorations have been there 150 years and yet pieced together in a novel way. There are plenty of birdcages, stuffed animals and old paintings scattered around the various rooms.

Would I Want Seconds?

Soon after we were sat at the table we were brought delicious (and warm!) rosemary bread rolls with butter that melted spectacularly. It was just the perfect amount of bread the munch on while waiting for our courses.

I decided to start with the burrata with prosciutto di parma, broad beans, chili and mint (£7). There wasn’t a lot of flavour to the burrata itself (which is to be expected as it’s not exactly a hard cheddar), but with the chili topping it was a really nice creamy and spicy combo. The prosciutto was delicious as well. The broad beans were not something I liked - but I generally don’t like beans. They did however add quite a bit of volume and substance to the dish.

Rosemary Bread

Burrata with prosciutto

Green asparagus

We also ordered the green asparagus, bottarga and hollandaise (£7). The asparagus was tasty and so thick. I always thought asparagus was meant to be much thinner to have a good flavour but these were good to me! However, there just wasn’t as much substance to this dish comparatively, especially since it was the same price point.

For our mains I ordered the spiced poussin with tomato and chickpea salad, harissa yoghurt, and grilled flat bread (£14.50). The flavour of the poussin was a really great blend of spices. It had a little kick to it but was perfectly balanced. It felt sort of small for a main, but I do always find it difficult to eat any sort of poultry off the bone so I’m sure I didn’t manage to eat quite as much meat as was given. The salad was not remarkable but a nice touch to help fill out the dish a bit. And the grilled flat bread was slightly over done for my tastes (I tend not to like anything too charred) but when dipped in the harissa yoghurt was nice as a side.

We also ordered the char-grilled rib eye with chorizo butter, great beans and Jersey Royal potatoes (£20). The meat was tender and juicy and cooked well - and that butter smothered all over it was delicious. It gave it a richer flavour. The sides were fairly basic, but done well.

When we ordered dessert I was immediately drawn to the chocolate dish and ordered the chocolate torte with salted caramel truffle and clotted cream (£7.50). I loved the chocolate torte - it was the perfect balance between cake and brownie. The clotted cream is served like a scoop of ice cream and although I love clotted cream on a scone I’m not sure how I felt about it with this desert. I didn’t dislike it, but I also think the ice cream might have been a better option. The salted caramel was nice enough, but to be honest I might be over that trend as I just want regular caramel!

We also tried the vanilla panna cotta with pineapple and grappa (£7) which was fairly bland to me. But I will say it was more flavourful that the first panna cotta a tried a few months back. I really think this is just not a dessert I’ll ever be able to judge fairly because I just don’t like it. The slices of pineapple on top were delicious though!

Spiced poussin

Char grilled rib-eye

Could I Afford Seconds?

I think for the location and look of the outside The Paradise really is a gem to be found. The food was much better quality than I expected from what really looks like a pub. In fact I would say the quality rivals that of some pretty nice, expensive restaurants.

Although the prices reflect that this isn't standard pub fare, the quality means it is great value. I was very much satisfied with the amount of food I got in a three course meal and felt full but not stuffed at the end of it. However I have a pretty big appetite and most people could probably share and appetiser and dessert and still be satisfied at the end. Expect to spend £30-40 per person for a three-course meal (maybe a bit more if you want to order alcohol).

Chocolate torte with salted caramel truffle

Vanilla panna cotta

Overall?

This place really did live up to my expectations. The decore at The Paradise is funky and eclectic and the food was delicious and fairly priced.

We had the opportunity to take a look at some of the other rooms that can be hired out and there is a gorgeous conservatory upstairs with its own bar!

They also have live music on the weekends, but if you’re just looking for a weekday night dinner with some quality food then The Paradise is a great option. And then of course the front room is a lovely pub where you can meet for a few drinks. It really is a multifunctional space and none of it feels out of place.

I’m so glad I had the opportunity to come back to The Paradise to try the food and I will definitely be looking into booking a room for my birthday later this year!